POW Tour Trip Report

We arrived in Berlin, Germany on Tuesday after being on the road for about 24 hours with very little sleep. We immediately set out with the group to see a local landmark, the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, and do some souvenir shopping. The Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche is one of Berlin's most famous landmarks. The damaged tower is a symbol of Berlin's resolve to rebuild the city after the war and a constant reminder of the destruction of war.

At dinner that evening the first Kriegie we spoke to was Gerry May who had been in Lager A of Luft IV with Richard. Even though they had not known each other then they got along as if they had long been friends. Richard and Gerry were the only Kriegies from Luft IV on this trip.

Up and out early, we headed to Potsdam, Germany on our tour bus. We were very lucky that the weather was perfect since we expected only overcast and rain the entire trip. We visited the Cecelienhof Palace, site of the 1945 Potsdam Conference, and then on to the Palace Sans Souci, built by Frederick the Great in the mid-1700s.

After touring around Potsdam we headed back to Berlin and stopped at the Brandenburg Gate. We saw many other landmarks throughout Potsdam and Berlin but only out the window of our bus.

That evening we attended a reception at the Russian Science and Culture Center in Berlin. It was hosted by Natalia Botova, daughter of four-star Russian General Pavel Batov who liberated Stalag Luft I in May 1945. There were Russian veterans of WWII there and shots of good Russian vodka for toasts.

We left for Stalag Luft I in Barth, Germany. This was a four-hour bus ride North to the Baltic Sea during which we enjoyed the German countryside and got to know our fellow travelers more. Once there we visited St. Marien's church, built in the 16th century, then went out to the Luft I camp site.

That evening we were invited to a reception at the Barth Mayor's office (the Rathaus in German). They recognized the contributions of our Kriegies during the war and presented them with a gift. Some of the local German attendees were children in Barth during the war and were telling stories of their experiences which the Kriegies really enjoyed.

In the morning Dad and I walked to two nearby historical sites. Our hotel was located on the site of the Heinkel airplane factory and the concentration camp that provided slave labor for the factory. Our first stop with the group was to a German high school located on the grounds of the former headquarters for the German Flak school. The Flak school provided training on how to use anti-aircraft guns during the war. The students put on a music concert for us then took us for a tour of their school. Their English is very good. Afterwards we visited the Luft I museum.

We headed for Poland. Since we were near it we made a detour to visit the Peenemünde museum. This is where the Germans developed the V-1 and V-2 rockets that were fired at Britain.

During this trip we crossed the path of Richard's forced march when they evacuated his prison camp in February 1945. He and 6,000 other Kriegies were marched for 86 days from Poland back into Germany to avoid being liberated by the approaching Russians. His march covered more than 450 miles.

This was our longest day yet for traveling. We saw a good deal of countryside and quaint little towns before we finally made it to Koszalin, Poland (pronounced "Koh-sha-lin") at 7:30 p.m. This town is about 1 hour North of where Luft IV is located.

Our big day finally arrived! Sunday dawned overcast but dry which was very fortunate because we knew we would be outside when we visited Luft IV. We arrived at the Luft IV monument site at 11:00 a.m. to find a large group waiting for us. There was the town mayor, the fire brigade, a band, Polish Scouts, reporters and TV cameras! They had organized a very special ceremony to honor our Kriegies.

Richard and Gerry both stood up to make short speeches about their POW experiences and to thank our Polish hosts for honoring the memory of their ordeal. The Stalag Luft IV Association (run by Joe O'Donnell) has begun a memorial program to have granite plaques installed at the Luft IV monument site so I was able to surprise Dad with his own plaque. His is one of the first eight to be installed and this was completed just prior to our arrival.

We were able to take a few moments after the ceremony was completed to walk out into the woods to look for visible remains of the camp. The whole area is now overgrown with pine trees but some foundations are still visible in the undergrowth.

Once we were dragged out of the woods they took us to the Podborsko (formerly Kiefheide) railroad station which is about two miles from the camp. This is where the Luft IV Kriegies were unloaded from trains and then walked to the camp. There is also a monument there and our hosts put on another ceremony commemorating the 2.5 mile walk to the camp, which for some Kriegies was very traumatic.

Our hosts then treated us to a special luncheon that included a viewing of the beginning of their Luft IV museum. While we were at lunch Richard and Gerry were taken aside for an interview with a Polish reporter.

On our way back to Koszalin we visited a Polish cemetery that contained a special monument dedicated to Luft IV POWs. Polish cemeteries are quite beautiful and well tended, showing a great deal of respect to those who have passed on. We wrapped up the day with a dinner that was attended by the mayor of Tychowo and the artists who designed the Luft IV monuments. It was quite a day, made extra special by all the effort our Polish hosts went through to commemorate our visit.

We were on the road by 8 a.m. making a speed run back to Berlin. Our travel through the German and Polish countryside was very reminiscent of being in central New York state. There were similar trees, farmlands and small towns. After a six hour trip we arrived back in Berlin and had the afternoon to ourselves. Richard took a nap and I hit the road again. I made my way to Check Point Charlie and the remains of the Berlin Wall.

That evening we had our final dinner with our traveling companions. It seemed as if we had traveled with these folks for many weeks already yet it had only been one. After dinner those that chose said a few words to the group. This is what I contributed:

We packed our bags, said our goodbyes and headed home. After another 24 hour trip we arrived back at my house in Livermore, California and began talking of how we can go back next year.